Friday, April 30, 2010
Why Beets are Wonderful
Friends have told me that they have no idea how to make beets, and are intimidated by them. Beets are one of the most low maintenance vegetables around, and they are sweet, filling and delicious and a great source of natural fiber. I try to incorporate them into my diet at least 4 times a week...another wonderful thing about beets is that local beets are available at the farm (upstate) from June through the end of November, and at the farmers markets well into December...and they keep for weeks in the fridge...therefore you can really have local beets for 8-9 months out of the year. There are many varieties of beets, I think the dark purple are the sweetest and the best way to cook them is to simply roast them whole. Don't cut the beets before roasting them because the high temperature that you have to roast them will dry them out...after roasting them you can do various things to them. You can also saute the beet greens in a little garlic and onion.
Simple beet recipe:
Preheat the oven to 425F
Cut the stems and greens off of the beets
Place beets in the center of a large sheet of aluminum foil and bunch the foil around the beets to form a pouch. Then place beets in the center of the oven.
Let beets roast for at least an hour and 15 minutes (longer for larger beets) until a fork can easily pierce through without much give.
Remove the beets from the oven and let cool for 20 minutes
Peel the skin and cut as desired.
Refrigerate or serve.
You can also add red wine vinegar and red onion and salt and pepper to the beets and marinate for a few hours for a tasty beet salad.
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Pork Palooza
As many of you who know me or read this blog have come to know, I'm obsessed with the pig! I have written numerous blog posts about pork because I truly believe that pork should be a food group. Sorry to all of you vegetarians, kosher abiding Jews and Muslims out there but blame it on my South Carolinian roots the pig should be enshrined! On my recent trip to South Carolina I think I might've overloaded on pork. In a 24 hour period I managed to eat pork in one shape and form or another at every single meal...but two dishes in particular absolutely blew my mind.
First the pork trotters with sunny side farm egg at Fig...this dish was pure heaven and so simple but so perfect. It was trotters (pigs feet) from a local farm pulled off of the bone and formed into a croquette with a perfectly cooked sunny side up egg perched on top. The plate was simply garnished with purple endive, pickles and a mustard vinaigrette. This dish was so rich, and creamy and salty and smooth and crunchy at the same time. The potency of the farm egg with it's rich, custardy, dark yellow yolk coupled with the salty and crunchy trotters and the bitter of the endive with the salt and crunch of the gherkin pickles. Brilliant...
Another moment of culinary brilliance was the pork chop (bone in of course, as there is no other way to have it) with fried oysters, hollandaise, and smoky bacon with a black eyed pea cassoulet at High Cotton. There was pork in every bite, the tender pork chop with the crispy salty bacon, and the sweet crisp but also smooth oysters and the silky hollandaise all at one time...OMG a party in my mouth, and how innovative to serve fried oysters on top of a pork chop (why didn't I think of that?). Then there was the sharpness of the green onion on top of the hollandaise and the crunch of the panko crumbs and bacon in the black eyed pea cassoulet. Simply amazing!
Another wonderful plus about both of these restaurants is that they support local, sustainable food...the produce and meat and seafood are local if at all possible which adds to the flavor of the dishes...once again (and I know I repeat this over and over) the culinary benefits of going local are showcased! If you go to Charleston these restaurants should be on your short list.
Friday, April 23, 2010
That Coconut Cake - Worth the Hype?
Charleston has gotten alot of press recently as being a "foodie" destination. It was featured by Tony Bourdain on No Reservations, featured by Tyler Florence and Bobby Flay on Throwdown. The Throwdown episode that featured Charleston was the Throwdown of Robert Carter's coconut cake at Peninsula Grill. Bobby Flay won, and Bobby is hardly a pastry chef, so I was determined to see what the hype was about and whether the cake was worth the hype and Bobby's winning was a fluke or if the cake wasn't as good as the attention it was getting.
My father is the biggest coconut cake fan in the world, my mother makes a coconut cake for him every birthday and he's super critical. So I enlisted him in the challenge of critiquing the cake. We went to dinner (very well executed and formal southern food) and ordered the cake. It was huge, 12 layers and the presentation was lovely. Lovely presentation doesn't necessarily equal the best taste so I was skeptical at best. My father took the first bite and then I heard "quite good"...bite two "very good"...I then snatched the cake from him to get a bite before it disappeared before my eyes. It was very rich, and very moist but also oddly light. It was heavenly, creamy and crunchy at the same time; I ended up having three bites and I hate coconut cake! My grandfather who doesn't like sweets helped devour it, and my mom gave the nod of approval. It's worth the hype, the cake really is that good. But my father says it still isn't as good as my mothers.
Thursday, April 22, 2010
Shrimp-n-Grits
I'm here in Charleston South Carolina - the SC Low Country and the originator of what has become a wildly popular dish nationwide; Shrimp and Grits.
My family comes from here, and on special occasions (such as Christmas morning as it's tradition) and once in awhile at our Bed and Breakfast Catskill Maison my mother will whip up possibly the best version of shrimp and grits in the world. She uses huge gulf or South Carolina coastal shrimp and the most flavorful andouille sausage. We have this dish featured on our Bed and Breakfast homepage, because it symbolizes so much where we are from and what we are about. Shrimp and grits recipes are sacred, and varied...and I'm extremely critical when I eat it in public. It simply never measures up anywhere close to my mother's so I've pretty much stopped ordering it at restaurants. Until last night.
Since Charleston is the birthplace of Shrimp and Grits and Hanks Seafood Restaurant is possibly the best seafood restaurant in Charleston I thought I'd take the risk and order the shrimp and grits...I'm so glad that I did. The shrimp were plump, moist and perfectly cooked (as we know one of my huge pet peeves is overdone shrimp). The sausage was flavorful and the roux wasn't too salty or spicy and the perfect consistency...they even used the green onion garnish perfectly. The Grits were stone ground, and creamy but not runny and had a solid consistency. Bravo! This dish was as close to my mother's as I've ever eaten. For those of you who've been fortunate enough to experience the shrimp and grits that we make at the Bed and Breakfast, and are disappointed elsewhere...or for anyone traveling to Charleston in general, the Shrimp and Grits at Hanks Seafood Restaurant gets the thumbs up and meets my approval!
Monday, April 19, 2010
Fresh Ham Cuban Style And More Pork Coming!
As some of you may know I have an on going love affair with the pig! Pork for me is one of the best things on earth and hands down should be a separate food group. I love pork so much that instead of just buying cuts of pork from the local farms in the Catskills (or Whole Foods in a pinch) for the past 2 years I have commissioned JJ Farber farm in Jewett NY (about a 5 mile drive from Catskill Maison B&B) who specializes in grass fed hormone/antibiotic beef and free range eggs to raise a hormone/antibiotic farm roaming pig for me. Every winter a pig is brought to the farm, and John (who runs the farm) handles the pig for me until May when it's big enough to be used for meat. This process is very important because I have complete knowledge of what the pig is eating and it's level of exercise and most importantly I can control how much of each type of meat I want. For the Bed and Breakfast I tend to want a lot of ham, bacon and breakfast sausage. But for myself I have a major affinity for roasted fresh ham/shoulder (ok and all of those parts that make most people squirm so I won't go into those parts for this blog post). This weekend I roasted the last leg of fresh ham so I could have room in anticipation of getting a new shipment of pork in about a month. I'm glad that I roasted the ham when I did because the new pork is being sent to the butcher today. Stay tuned for my blog post on how I broke down the cuts of meat for the pig...but for now enjoy the below recipe for fresh ham Cuban Style!
Roasted Pork Shoulder or Fresh Ham
Ingredients:
8-10 lb Pork Picnic (shoulder) can substitute with Fresh Ham*
Marinade
Bottle of Sour Orange Juice or ½ cup of orange juice and ½ cup of lime juice
1/2 bottle of red wine
2 lemons or limes squeezed keeping the rinds
2 Heads of Garlic ( half of the garlic coarsely chopped and half finely chopped)
2 limes
Olive oil ¼ cup
½ cup of Vinegar
2 tbs of fresh oregano finely chopped or 1 tbs of Dried Oregano
1 sazon packet
1 tbs of Adobo
Salt and pepper to taste
Rub
2 tablespoons of fresh oregano and fresh garlic processed in the food processor, or 1 tablespoon of dried oregano
1 sazon packet
1 tbs of Adobo
1 tbs of onion powder
1 tbs of cumin
Salt
Pepper
Cut 1 inch slits into all areas of the meat. Stuff the coarsely chopped 6 cloves of garlic in the slits (not all slits have to be stuffed). Combine all marinade ingredients in a glass or plastic bowl or glass pan and place the pork into marinade and cover with saran wrap and let sit for 12 hours and then turn the meat over every 12 hours for 48 hours.
Preheat oven to 300 F for 20 minutes
Remove meat from marinade and shake off excess. (Reserve 1 cup of Marinade) Rub meat with olive oil, and combine all rub ingredients and then rub onto meat. Place meat in a pan and put the pan in the oven on top rack. Pour reserved marinade into the pan. Place another pan with water on bottom rack. After 1 and ½ hours baste meat with drippings, and then baste again after 3 hours. After four and a half or 5 hours or when a fork can easily go into the meat remove the water and keep roasting for a total of 6 hours…raise temperature to 450 for ½ hr to 45 min to crisp the outside. Pork is done when meat is falling off the bone and very tender. Do not cut for ½ an hour.
*If you use a fresh ham increase the time by 3 hours.
Friday, April 16, 2010
Knife Skills
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
The Connection Between Health Care Reform, Supporting Local Farms, and Jamie Oliver's Food Revolution
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
Bailey's Irish Cream - Not Only For Drinking
Sometimes I'm just not in the mood to bake, and last week it was so hot outside that I really didn't want to turn on the oven in my apartment but I wanted a dessert that wasn't ice cream. One of my standby's when I don't want to turn on the oven is Tiramisu. I had Bailey's and heavy cream in the fridge so I figured I'd run to Whole Foods and get some ladyfingers and mascarpone and make a Tiramisu.
When I got to Whole Foods the strawberries were on sale so I picked up a container, and then got this idea to make a strawberry dessert incorporating the ladyfingers soaked in the Bailey's. I didn't purchase the mascarpone, because I wanted to do a "play" on strawberries and cream (a dish that I absolutely adore in the summertime and it was literally 90 degrees outside). I ended up combining the heavy cream with a little creme fraiche and made this really good and refreshing dessert!
Recipe:
1 pint of heavy cream
1 package of Strawberries (thinly sliced)
a cup of Bailey's Irish Cream
1/3 cup of Confectioners Sugar
1/4 cup of creme fraiche
bittersweet chocolate shavings
Whip the heavy cream with the sugar, 30 seconds before you stop whipping add the creme fraiche and whip into the whipped heavy cream.
Take 1/3 of the lady fingers and soak each for about 30 seconds in the Bailey's. Then layer them in one layer in a baking pan. Spread the cream over the lady fingers, and spread the strawberries over the cream. Repeat all steps twice, except the top layer will only have cream and no strawberries. Let sit in the fridge at least 4 hours (preferably overnight), and then sprinkle the cream with the chocolate shavings and serve.
Monday, April 12, 2010
Herbs and the Food Processor
When we picked up the groceries for the BBQ I suggested that we make a chimichurri to go along with the churrasco. After we got back to his place and I began to prep I asked for the food processor so that I could make the chimichurri. The food processor is second on my list of kitchen necessities (a close second to my knives). When my friend told me that he didn't have a food processor I had a temporary panic. I've become so accustomed to the food processor that I actually sat for about 30 seconds wondering how I was going to make the chimichurri without it. Then I said to myself "Lea, don't be ridiculous...for hundreds of years before the food processor people were making chimichurri. Use a knife!"...and that's what I did. Guess what? By not using the food processor the flavor of the herbs in the chimichurri were enhanced! Food processors dull herbs, and reduce their quality because they become bruised...the level of control of the size of the individual ingredients (and therefore texture) of your sauce is also removed. I did a tiny dice of all of the ingredients and combined them in a bowl!!!! WOW! this was the best chimichurri I've ever made.
Recipe
Chop the following very finely and add to a bowl
1 bunch of parsley
1/2 bunch of cilantro
8 cloves of garlic
1/2 medium sized red onion (or 1/4 large red onion)
Add to the above
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
juice and zest of 2 lemons
4-6 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon of crushed red pepper flakes
salt and pepper to taste.
Thursday, April 8, 2010
The Promised Land AKA Iron Horse Grill in Pleasantville
I've just returned from the "promised land", and no it wasn't a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, or a trip to the local church or Synagogue...I just got back from Iron Horse Grill in Pleasantville (Westchester County) and now I will have all of the religious fanatics screaming that I committed Blasphemy. But in all honesty there is no other way to explain the experience.
I first dined at Iron Horse Grill during this past Hudson Valley Restaurant Week and I heard from word of mouth that Iron Horse was one of the best. As I stated in my blog post back in March, I was so blown away that I made another reservation while still dining. But that experience didn't prepare me in the least for the treat that I was in for tonight. Overall this was one of the best dining experiences that I've ever had, and I'm no stranger to the NY restaurant scene.
We got the $49 prix fixe (which is any appetizer, entree and dessert and a steal considering the quality of food). I have to break down this meal course by course (which I never do because it makes blog posts too long, but to not explain in detail wouldn't do this experience justice).
For appetizers we had the salmon "sliders", timbale of peaky toe crab, seared diver scallops and Duck confit salad.
First the Sliders - soft but crunchy toasted brioche, perfectly cured salmon, smooth and well seasoned spread...AWESOME! So good that my father (who puts hot sauce on absolutely everything) refused to put hot sauce on them...as a matter of fact this is the first time in history that he didn't put hot sauce on anything at all, his entire meal was hot sauce free...and this is really significant, because the man even puts hot sauce on french toast!
The crab - I can barely speak, the sweetness of the tarragon coupled with the saltiness of the caviar, and then the smooth texture of the avocado with the crunch of the sweet corn and the freshness and sweetness of the crab all rolled into one, and then there was what seemed like a chive aioli with tomato garnishing the plate as an "accent" ...simply brilliant and it just popped in your mouth.
The Scallops - okay so scallops and shrimp are a major pet peeve for me. Nothing is more irritating to me than an over cooked scallop or shrimp, it clearly states a lack of attention to detail by the line (or God forbid the chef)...I'm such a stickler that I dedicated an entire blog post to the issue. Well my mother gave me a bite of her scallop, and it was perfectly crusted (seared) on the outside and melt in your mouth soft inside, and so sweet...just perfect! Bravo to chef McGrath and his team.
Duck Confit salad- ok so the duck was perfect, but to me that wasn't the star of this show...what made this dish so incredibly special was the celery root...ok pause yes you read this properly, celery root! A vegetable that is often overlooked and I often just dismiss because I'm not very fond of it. Chef McGrath julienned the celery root, and then added (what I think was) dijon mustard, mayo, celery seed, salt, white wine (or wine vinegar) salt and pepper and created this slaw that was OUT OF THIS WORLD! I was swooning...so simple but just so good.
Entrees equally innovative and spot on!
Duck - perfectly cooked and not tough, well spiced and the rhubarb chutney was lovely, a perfect combination of sweet and sour. The forbidden rice was out of this world...spicy at first and then it plays tricks on your taste buds because the finish is sweet!
Rack of Lamb (pictured above) - also perfectly cooked, and incredible presentation but the star here was the polenta, firm on the outside but pudding soft center, and the apricot and black (I think kalamata) olive tapenade was brilliantly placed on top of the soft polenta, so when I took a bite of the polenta and tapenade and lamb together I had sweet and salty and sour and chewy and firm and soft all hitting my palate at once...oh yes then I picked up the bone and tried to hide in the corner as I was chewing and gnawing like a yard dog!
Pork Porterhouse (also pictured above) - is there a need to critique here? Pork should be a food group! And as a porter house it was so succulent and the crisp onion rings that were not remotely greasy and the homemade steak sauce (this isn't your A-1 happening here, no sir!) and the gorgonzola potatoes, ok gorgonzola with anything is amazing! And to pair it with the "homely" potato really rounded out the flavor of the whole dish.
Dessert -
I have to be honest here, I ran out of steam so I didn't have the blueberry cobbler (though after my father was done with it, there was no need to run the plate through the dishwasher). I only had a tiny bite of the Chocolate Marquis, but it's a super rich chocolate lovers dream (and it was really decadent and I might order it in a couple of weeks LOL!). I did manage to indulge in the dried cherry bread pudding...AMAZING! The cherries were the perfect slightly sour complement to the sweet molasses and pecan ice cream, so the sweetness wasn't overpowering. The pudding was firm and warm and lovely. A perfect end to a perfect meal.
All in all, Chef Philip McGrath, his wife Catherine (who manages the front of the house) and his team get it! They balance elegant and comfortable perfectly. Chef McGrath doesn't skimp on quality and most of all he really cares about his product and has pride in everything he does. There is passion and love in his food, his staff and his restaurant...that passion and love comes from the heart and can't be orchestrated. From the minute you step into the space you feel like an old friend, and the level of care that is extended is so genuine you just want to come back again and again...and we will be doing just that!
Wednesday, April 7, 2010
Yes, You Can Drink Red Wine With Fish
If you’ve ever been to a restaurant that has a menu that recommends wine pairings, you will notice that red wine is rarely paired with fish. And if it is, it’s the lightest Burgundy (or Pinot Noir) that the Sommelier can find. But we are always told that we should put more fish and chicken in our diets, which I am diligently doing in my constant quest to be more health conscious and it’s the red wine that has all of the antioxidants.
Listening to the wine pairing “philosophy,” you don’t pair fish with red wine, therefore diminishing the total “wellness” experience of your meal. For me, I know if I’m going to eat something healthy I want to feel like I’m getting the whole experience; therefore I want to drink something with health benefits too. This is not to discredit the benefits of water (but this is a blog post about wine!!) or to diminish how well a great Sancerre or Chardonnay pairs with fish. Honestly, in the summer there is nothing better, which explains how my desire for a white wine generally outshines my desire for the value of antioxidants. But in the winter, or when I just feel like a glass (or two) of red, I want to know that I can have that red wine without sacrificing the flavor of the fish.
My palate likes heavy wines, so the Pinot Noir family of wines generally won’t do, but a really heavy red will overpower the delicacy of most fish dishes so I’ve found some great alternatives: Nebbiolo from Italy, some Spanish Tempranillos or a Cotes de Rhone from France in the old world wines for me tend to not overpower fish dishes…and believe it or not, there are red wines often labeled as “table wines” right here in the Finger Lakes region of NY State that are not overpowering and relatively inexpensive; they pair really well with fish and are actually quite universal. Lamoreaux Landing Estate Red, and Bully Hill Baco Noir are two that come to mind. All in all, wine is so palate specific, I have learned not to be intimidated, nor do I follow the rules…there is only one rule that I stick to, which is try them all and drink what I like when I want it!
Tuesday, April 6, 2010
Clam Pizza???!!!
Last night I went to the Famous Frank Pepe's Pizzeria that has been featured time and again on the Food Network and Travel Channel. Coming from the Bronx I'm very opinionated. I think that the mom and pop pizza shops from the Bronx have the best pizza in the world and I'm quick to make a judgment about pizza joints that are "chains". I want my pizza crisp, and thin, with only a few toppings and I want to be able to neatly fold my pizza to eat it.
Frank Pepe's Pizzeria only has 2 things on the menu; brick oven pizza and salad. They have their tomato pizza with mozzarella and list toppings that can be added and a few specialty pizza's, including their Clam Pizza. I love clams, and I love cheese...but I generally have an aversion to cheese with seafood, it just doesn't go together. But I ordered the clam pizza because the waitress said it was really good and I was intrigued. It was AMAZING! The crust was super thin, crispy and slightly charred in a good way. The clams were large, and chewy but tender and the garlic was the perfect complement. And the cheese, well it just worked. No sauce, just mozzarella and not overwhelming, the perfect amount with oregano sprinkled over it. This pizza is really addictive and I will be returning again and again!
I've learned a lesson from this, if done properly seafood can be paired with cheese, the experience might have opened up a new culinary path for me. Stay tuned for recipes combining seafood and cheese.
Monday, April 5, 2010
It's all about the Struffoli
Struffoli are an Italian honey ball dessert that I (and now my cat Kobe as well) have been addicted to since I was about 6 years old. They are usually made around Christmas time and if you go to Little Italy in the Bronx every bakery has them...But they are not all created equal. A good struffoli is a perfect balance between crunch, airiness, stickiness (from the honey) and a hint of lemon. A bad struffoli can be too cake like or heavy, no lemon, under saturated or over saturated with honey or worst of all not crunchy, so tasting like a stale cookie.
Artuso Bakery on 187th street in Little Italy (near Arthur Ave) has the best struffoli hands down! And they are one of the few bakeries that also make it for Easter! I'm so happy because I've been eating them for the past week. For all those in search of the best struffoli, your search is officially over. The struffoli mecca is at Artuso's.